Showing posts with label Humayun Tomb. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Humayun Tomb. Show all posts

Wednesday, 20 June 2012

Lonely Tomb: Neela Gombat

(Text and Photography by Pupps Roy)

Another blistering day of summer and the temperature reached 45 degrees in Delhi. 1pm at Nizamuddin East. Many are resting on the green turf behind Humayun tomb to get rid of searing loo and scorchy sun. The bits of Humayun tomb are visible and the peak is sparkling under the super hot sun. Its another 15 minutes walk following the railway track to reach Humayun Tomb. Heat wave is unbearable. "A glass of water please?" But where is the water? No shops, no stalls in close vicinity. Look right. There's a tomb which is partially covering the Sun. It looks spectacular under the sun. It looks like its playing hide and seek with the sun. A part of its has shed and the other side is so bright that you can't see with eyes straight open as if someone is reflecting sunlight off a mirror on your face. Meet Surinder the security guard and the sole manager of this historical property. He talks about this tomb.

This Octagonal tomb is known as Neela Gombat or Blue Dome. This is not a major tourist attraction spot but lot of tourists stop by this tomb and spend quite some time on the way visiting Humayun Tomb. You can enter here for free without buying any ticket. This work of ancient Indian architecture is located right behind the Humayun tomb adjoining Nizamuddin Railway track. It’s called Neela Gombat because its "onion" shaped peak is made up of glazed blue tiles which was rare those days. There are rumours about this tomb. It is said that it has been built by Abdur Rahim Khan-I-Khana for his faithful attendant Fahim Khan in 1625. But there is no historic signboard here which tells the story of this tomb. However Surinder versed a totally different tale about the Neela Gombti. He said that Humayun’s wife Hamada Banu Begum's special attendant used live in this tomb who specially made Churis(Bracelets) for her. After his death he was buried here. Now Fahim Khan could have bourne two identities. He could be Abdul Rahim Khan-I-Khana's servant as well as the servant of Hamida Banu Begum. Both are believable. But Wikipedia does not mention anything about the Bracelet making history. Maybe some secret stories are only told only at the right place, right time and to right kind of people.

This spectacular tomb has awesome view from all across its sides. The maintenance is really poor. Each sides of this Octagonal tomb look unique. Sadly you can’t enter inside the tomb due to security reason. It’s closed forever and is only opened for cleaning purpose. A devout Muslim is reading namaz next to the tomb. Bangladeshi refugees have made plastic tents across the railway track to live there. "This place is not good Sir. Anything can happen here. All wrong kind of people live by the railway track. See these lights are missing. We lost many signboards as well." said Surinder with a very emotional tone and points his finger to the empty light holders. Thieves and beggars steal lights and sell them outside. "Sir this tomb looks awesome during the sunset and also when the lights are on in the evening". He sits on the floor with a frustration look and stares at the empty light holders. Lonely tomb stares back at him.











Monday, 11 June 2012

Greenest, Quietest and Richest: Nizamuddin East


Out in the morning heat of early June. Not very far, just errands to an area of the riches of Delhi. Nizamuddin East. Like the Upper East Side of Manhattan in New York this area too is priciest and remains the residential area of the very important people in Delhi. It falls on the famous Mathura Road.  Many Delhi Transport buses ply through this area. It is considered to be one of New Delhi's greenest and most peaceful area. And why not? The whole Nizamuddin East has 32 public parks and the huge lay of Humayun Tomb. The view to the tomb is breathtaking. Most houses in A and B block can view Humayun Tomb from their Patio or Balcony. And every house terrace can have a view of the historical tomb. The privilege is they can visit the tomb without buying any ticket. And the whole greenery and the peacefulness reduce the temperature. It feels like its 5 degrees cooler than the outer world. Almost every house has plantations around the wall or in their balcony and have a park facing view.

Your Mother lives here. Yes Sheila Dixit, The hon'ble chief minister of Delhi has her residence here and also many important people of the society share this neighborhood such as Jatin Das and his daughter, actor Nandita Das, Francis Wacziarg  of the Neemrana Hotels chain, Anjolie Ela Menon and many more.

There is a narrow market strip at the backside of B block. It has grocery stores, Drycleaners, an upscale Cafe "Cafe Turtle" and also a factory outlet of an Ethnic Designer Store called "Anokhi". But mostly the residents of this area go to Khan Market for their daily shopping which is 5 minutes drive away. This area is huge but you would love to walk in its quiet tranquility and its stunning unperturbed beauty. No neighborhood of Delhi has such huge greenery like this.

You cannot buy any house here because no one wants to sell even if you want to spend a fortune. A normal two bedroom apartment will cost you 1 Lac or above as a monthly rent. This prestigious colony has few serviced apartments and bed and breakfasts. They charge little less than "Taj Hotels" per day approximately. Live life king-size or in a Queenly state or estate? Come over here.





(Text and Photography by Pupps Roy)